Choosing and Applying Blush for Your Skin Tone

Blush is one of the oldest cosmetics there is. Ancient Egyptians tinted their cheeks with red ochre, and in 18th-century France heavily rouged cheeks were a mark of status for both men and women. After years in the shadow of contour and bronzer, it's back at the center of many makeup routines, and the reason is fairly simple: a little color on the cheeks reads as health.

That's more than a figure of speech. In research led by Ian Stephen at the University of St Andrews, people adjusted the color of face photos to make them look as healthy as possible, and consistently added more redness. Rosy skin is linked to good blood flow and oxygenation, and we seem to pick up on it instinctively.

Choosing a formula

Powder is easiest to blend and lasts well on oily skin. Apply it after foundation and any other powder.
Cream melts into the skin and looks natural on dry or mature skin, since it doesn't settle into texture. Apply it before powder.
Liquid and gel stains last the longest but dry quickly, so work in small amounts.
Sticks are the most portable and often double as lip color.

Choosing a shade

A good starting point is the color your cheeks turn after exercise. In general, light skin suits soft pinks and peaches, medium skin suits rose, coral and warm berry, and deep skin suits richer shades such as plum, brick and bright orange-red, which show up without looking chalky. Shades that are too pale for your skin can look gray or ashy.

Where to put it

Placement changes the effect more than shade does.

On the apples of the cheeks: smile, then apply to the round part and blend outward. This gives a youthful, fresh look.
High and swept toward the temples: lifts the face and works well with a defined look. It's sometimes called draping when it's taken up toward the eye area.
Across the cheeks and bridge of the nose: the "sunburnt" look, which mimics time outdoors.
Lower on the cheeks: tends to drag the face down, so most makeup artists avoid it.

Tools and technique

For powder, a fluffy, slightly angled brush gives the softest result. Swirl it in the pan, tap off the excess and apply with light circular motions. Cream and liquid formulas blend most easily with fingertips, since body warmth helps them melt into the skin, or with a damp makeup sponge for a sheerer finish. Building color in two or three thin layers looks more natural than one heavy application.

Adjusting for your skin

Mature skin: cream formulas tend to sit better than powder on texture and fine lines. Placing blush slightly higher on the cheekbone, rather than low on the apples, gives a lifted look. Heavy shimmer can emphasize texture, so satin or soft matte finishes are usually more flattering.
Oily skin: powder blush lasts longer, and setting a cream blush with a little powder of a similar shade helps it stay put.
Acne-prone skin: look for products labeled non-comedogenic and wash brushes weekly, since a dirty brush moves oil and bacteria around the face.
Deep skin tones: highly pigmented formulas show up better, and shades with a warm or red base tend to look more natural than pale, cool pinks.

Using blush on eyes and lips

Many cream blushes are sold as multi-use products for cheeks, eyes and lips. Check the packaging before putting a cheek product near your eyes. In the U.S., the Food and Drug Administration does not allow some color additives to be used in the eye area, so a shade that is safe on the cheeks is not automatically approved for eyelids. Products intended for all three uses will say so.

Common mistakes

Too much product at once is the most common one. Tap off the excess and build in layers. Harsh edges are the second, which can be fixed by blending with a clean brush or a little foundation. Check your blush in natural daylight, since bathroom lighting can hide how strong it is.